Rubble

Last week I have been busy creating the rubble on the diorama base. The ground was filled first with some insulation foam, to reduce the thickness of the celluclay layer. On top of the foam, celluclay mixed with white glue, red color and water was applied using an old brush.

Into the still wet celluclay I pressed single scale bricks (from Juweela) and small plaster parts, adding some white glue first. After this had dried, I added some small stones and model railroad ballast.

As all was dry, I painted the rubble. I started with a base layer of brick red and light gray for the concrete parts. Then I applied a wash from oils (lamp black and burnt umber), blending and removing stains with a clean brush moistened with white spirit. After this had dried, I slightly dry brushed the bricks using a orange red color, and a light grey color for the concrete parts.

As a final touch I added a filter from ochre and some umber. This added a lot of realism to the colors, as the stark contrasts are subdued, the red and gray hues become much more natural and the overall color range is compressed, also making the overall impression more natural:

Over the “slit” visible on the right hand side the burnt out Opel will be placed.

Now I will add some more details (steel parts, another plate, cables) and also more rubble to the ground areas not yet covered, but this has to wait for the figures being ready to be fitted to the base. Of course the Opel also has to be added, after blackening the bricks under the car.

The ruins are finished

The wall pieces are now fixed to the base. The door casing between the brick walls is made from styrene sheet and some brass parts from the stash. Things start to look very solid now:

Ruine roh 01  Ruine roh 02

After priming with Tamiya gray I painted everything with Vallejo acrylics. A wash and further details were added using oils.

The door will be placed forced out of the hinges inside the door casing. The plate reads “Keep out” and was made from decal sheet:

Tür 01  Türe 02

These are the painted ruins:

The next step will be covering the ground with rubble, using some scale bricks and plaster parts. The ground will be made from a local version of celluclay.

I am a bit nervous, as I never tried making groundwork this way. And perhaps the diorama will be finished until Christmas time…

Diorama base and ruins

Now the base is finished. It is made from a plywood board, some ledgers and thin plywood parts attached to the sides. After being glued together, it was covered with veneer, stained and varnished.

This is how the base looks like at the moment:

Auf Sockel 02 Auf Sockel 01

Here the stained and varnished veneer is visible.

Sockel

The walls are made from plaster parts being left over from the first version of the scene, and are temporarily placed on the base. Behind the Opel, there will be a small brick wall, opposite to the car a wall with concrete pillars, bricks and a steel door.

The brick structure was carved into the plaster using various sculpting tools:

Mauer roh 02 Mauer roh 01

burnt out Opel painted

After my summer holidays, I continued working on the Opel. I attached the registration plate holders and reworked the roof. Then everything was primed with Tamiya flat black.

Then I used different oil paints (Paynes’ grey and white) on the model, applying small dots of color and then blending them with a clean brush moistened with turpentine. The blending brush must be almost dry, so it is important to remove as much turpentine as possible on a paper towel before blending the colors.

After this has dried, rust was applied using thinned ochre yellow and burnt siena, and also blended.

As reference, I collected some pictures of burnt out cars in different states of decay. Light rust of a bright orange color seems to appear immediately after the burning, and this look I wanted to create. As time goes by, the car wreck continues to rust, with the rust becoming darker.

Now I have to attach the roof and rework the paint job, where the roof is glued to the car. Maybe I will also use some pigments.

And that is how the Opel looks like:

converting the burnt out Opel

For some time I have been busy with converting the Opel, which is now almost ready to get painted. Only the roof, which will be fitted after painting the car, and the registration plates are missing. For the roof, I will use the kit part, thinned using my Dremel tool, and also be scratched and bent. The registration plate holders will be made from brass sheet.

The remaining parts of the seats are made from copper wire, and some parts (pedals, gear switch, steering wheel) are made from brass. Apart from that, the kit parts where used. Some parts were thinned with the Dremel and some dents were created with my sculpting tools after the plastic was made soft using a soldering iron cautiously held above the surface.

Dragon “Last Battle” – second build

Actuall, I don’t like the scene featuring the four Dragon figures and the archway anymore, and also the figures could look better. Therefore, I will build a new scene using these figures (6278 – 1/35 “Last Battle” (Austria 1945)) again.

I would also like to include a burnt out car, something like the one to be seen here:

Kadett kaputt

For the car, I have chosen an Opel from ICM (Kadett K38 Saloon, WWII German Staff Car), and I am currently busy with modifying the interior accordingly.

how to remove color

Here I want to share my experience with removing old or failed paint finishes without harming the model.

In my opinion, the best method to remove old color is using spirit or rubbing alcohol. It works both for acrylics and enamels. Spirit is essentially the same as ethanol, which is an alcohol like propanol.

  • acrylics: any alcohol is dissolving the paint immediately. With thicker layers of color, it is a good idea to soak the model for some time before removing the color with a brush. Resin ans styrene does not suffer from this treatment, I removed the finish of a resin figure three times in a row without damaging the details.
  • enamels: For removing enamels, the model has to be soaked for some time. The color then flakes from the ground in different sized chips. Any remaining color can be removed with a brush.

I am very happy with using alcohol or spirit to remove paint. The first finish of my king tiger (including a layer of Tamiya primer) was completely removed with this method. It is simple and the fumes are tolerable. I would rather not try to use others methods like brake fluid or oven cleaner.

You should also avoid using white spirit or turpentine to remove enamels. The color is removed, but turpentine is also detracting softening agents from the styrene, leaving the model brittle and with cracks and fissures.

king tiger crew 1/16

The figures are from Verlinden productions (German Tiger / Panther crew 120mm). The quality is ok, but they need a lot of reworking, and for the head sets I bought an additional PE set from Aber.

From the parts I then built three figures: the commander, the radio operator and the tank driver. Below you can see how the guys look like. Actually I am quite happy with the pea dot pattern.

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Tamiya king tiger 1/16

The first model I built after a lot of years without modelling was the king tiger RC tank from Tamiya in 1/16. I bought the kit in 2009 and built it during the summer.

In 2012 I didn’t like the look of the model any more, and I therefore disassemblied the tank completely again. Then I bought some PE and other additional parts and started to rebuild the tank. During the build, I realized that this project is going to be very time consuming and will always be some sort of compromise: on one side lot of delicate details, and on the other side a RC model capable of moving around.

Another essential feature to me was the addition of some figures, as I think that scale models without figures look very lifeless, and that nice figures add a lot to the overall finish of a model. Therefore I bought some resin figures from Verlinden productions, that were assemblied and painted after the recompletion of the tank.

And that is how the tank looks like now:

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